Weleda calls out EC on “unnecessarily” long timeframe for banning microplastics

17 Feb 2023 --- Weleda and other cosmetics companies are urging the European Commission (EC) in an open letter to strengthen upcoming legislation around microplastics by banning them in beauty products. 

The companies assert that the “exceptionally long” transition periods in the current proposal, especially 12 years for leave-on products such as makeup, are incompatible with ongoing EC initiatives and are therefore said to have no justification. 

Weleda believes the upcoming legislation to restrict the use of intentionally added microplastics does not go far enough and is “unnecessarily lenient” on brands that continue to use microplastics, causing irreversible pollution. 

The beauty companies sending the open letter call the continuous use of microplastics “completely unnecessary” and highlight the harmful and irreversible damage to ecosystems and the risk to human health. Recent studies found that nine out of ten care products still include microplastics. 

“Together with fellow microplastics-free brands, we urge the EC to implement decisive, consistent and rapid introduction of microplastic-free legislation as a matter of urgency,” says Nataliya Yarmolenko, chief commercial officer at Weleda. 

Yarmolenko highlights that 90% of shoppers believe ethical considerations are important when buying beauty products. “The beauty industry and others need to prioritize alternatives to microplastics so that we can move forward as an innovative, collective and planet-friendly beauty industry.”

Weleda believes the upcoming legislation to restrict the use of intentionally added microplastics does not go far enough.Open letter
In their open letter, the cosmetic companies assert that the principal driver within the industry is innovation. “Our industry is highly competitive and trend-led. With new research, changes in consumer behavior and legislation, we regularly review our formulations, packaging, labeling and regulatory requirements.”

Despite an official regulatory definition for the terms natural and organic, there has been a shift toward greater use of natural ingredients in cosmetics, say the companies. Moreover, natural and organic cosmetics have been the fastest-growing sector of the cosmetics industry.

Predictions for the compound annual growth rate of natural cosmetics in Europe between 2023-2027 are two to three times higher than for the cosmetic industry in general. Adaptation to increasingly rigorous consumer expectations has meant that many large and small cosmetic brands, including makeup brands, market microplastic-free products.

“Given the notable drivers for innovation from consumer expectations and market growth in natural ingredients, decisive, consistent and rapid introduction of microplastic-free legislation can act as an economic lever that will enable a triple-bottom-line approach, ensuring we have a pathway to the circular economy,” say the microplastic-free cosmetic companies. 

Scaling and driving investment toward increased innovation in the microplastic-free space offers new green jobs, decarbonizes supply chains and supports initiatives linked to chemicals and materials that are safe and environmentally sustainable by design.

Rising demand for sustainable productsNinety percent of shoppers believe ethical considerations are important when buying beauty products, according to Weleda.
In Europe alone, 7 kg of plastics from cosmetics are flushed into the environment every minute. Microplastics have been found in human blood, breast milk and can affect gut health. Increasing awareness from citizens and regulatory initiatives has shifted the industry toward more environmentally sustainable and circular products. 

“As a priority, we have proactively and voluntarily chosen to invest our resources in research and development that no longer depend on microplastics across a wide range of cosmetic product categories to deliver consumers with improved options when it comes to [environmental] sustainability,” say the beauty brands.

The cosmetic companies highlight that consumers can be trusted to understand that pollution should not be generated under performance-related claims. More than 52,000 people across Europe have already signed a petition by the Plastic Soup Foundation to ban all microplastics in cosmetics and personal care products. 

A recent study by Provenance furthermore shows that nine in ten shoppers believe environmental sustainability and ethics-related considerations are important when buying beauty and wellness products. 

“That is why we believe that leave-on products should also be free from microplastics. More often than not, microplastics can carry toxic chemicals, so a precautionary approach would imply that they should not be applied on human skin, even less on sensitive areas such as the mouth, eyes or the vulnerable skin of babies,” stress the cosmetic companies.

“We have made a choice to come together and call for a future-proof regulation that doesn’t provide exceptionally long transition periods for leave-on products and lip, nail and makeup products. As responsible industries, we believe we should contribute to shaping tomorrow’s world, not fight to maintain yesterday’s practices.”

By Natalie Schwertheim

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