VitroLabs scores US$46 million to build “world’s first” cell cultivated leather pilot

06 May 2022 --- VitroLabs, a biotech company claiming to lead the development of a new scientific process to grow the world’s first cellular cultivated animal leather, has announced that it has closed its series A financing to build and scale pilot production. The company has raised a total of US$46 million.

Based in California, US, VitroLabs is the “first” start-up positioned to bring cultivated leather to scale. Since 2016, the company has been pioneering the cutting edge material made by using advanced tissue engineering processes.

The company has made significant progress on product quality in the optimization of cell expansion processes and proprietary design of a novel, large-scale tissue cultivator, it says.

Series A funding is led by Agronomics, other investors include Bestseller’s Invest FWD, global luxury group Kering, Khosla Ventures, actor and environmentalist Leonardo DiCaprio, New Agrarian, and Regeneration. In addition, Kering continues its partnership with VitroLabs in bringing support for product quality testing, tanning and finishing.

The company says it has made significant progress on product quality in the optimization of cell expansion processes.Boosting commercialization
Co-Founder and stem cell scientist Dr. Dusko Ilic says: “Over the last two years, we have been laser-focused on pushing our tissue engineering platform in order to increase efficiency and to optimize tissue production to obtain the look, feel, and performance of traditional leather at scale.” 

“With several major breakthroughs in the areas of bioreactor design, bioprocess and facility design, and cell culture development, we are now on our way to a scalable process that delivers the desired premium qualities, forging a path toward the ultimate goal of industrialization.”   

Last fall, VitroLabs moved into its new, 45,000 square foot facility, designed for pilot production and laboratory space as the company moves from the bench towards commercialization. The funding will be used to fast-track commercialization, with expansion of scientific, manufacturing, and business development teams. 

“VitroLabs’ scalable tissue engineering platform provides environmentally sustainable, high quality leather,” says Jim Mellon of Agronomics. 

Last year, PackagingInsights spoke with Professor Pirjo Kääriäinen at the Aalto University’s School of Arts, Design and Architecture and the School of Chemical Engineering about the impact investing in bio-based materials can have on carbon reduction.

“VitroLabs’ scalable tissue engineering platform provides environmentally sustainable, high quality leather,” says Jim Mellon of Agronomics. Keeping environmental sustainability at heart
CEO Ingvar Helgason co-founded VitroLabs with the mission to create the highest quality materials that meet the uncompromising standards of the luxury industry while lowering environmental impact and furthering animal welfare. 

“At a time when environmental stewardship is more important than ever, biotech companies have the opportunity to lead the way in changing how we produce materials and build supply chains, working hand in hand with existing artisans and craftspeople who are the cornerstone of the US$400 billion leather goods industry,” says Helgason. 

“By launching the first production of cultivated leather, we’ll hit a major milestone in fulfilling our mission to lead the shift towards a more sustainable future.”

Helgason concludes: “There has been an explosion of companies that are developing alternative materials to leather. However, at VitroLabs, our cultivated animal leather preserves the biological characteristics that the industry, craftsmen, and consumers know and love about leather, while eliminating the most environmentally and ethically detrimental aspects of the conventional leather manufacturing process associated with its sourcing.”  

Also, the textile industry has recently been criticized for non-environmentally sustainable practices by using recycled PET without contributing significantly to its supply. 

By Natalie Schwertheim