Sulapac equips Lumene with biodegradable packaging for water-based cosmetics

31 Mar 2022 --- Cosmetics specialist Lumene and bio-based packaging company Sulapac are partnering to market water-based cosmetics in environmentally friendly packaging. The two will work on a pilot project to package Lumene’s most popular skincare products – Nordic-C Glow Reveal moisturizer and Nordic Hydra Intense Hydration 24 hour moisturizer.

“With the pilot, Lumene and Sulapac lead the change toward more [environmentally] sustainable packaging in the cosmetics industry. We believe this initiative encourages companies to investigate more of the opportunities in this sector,” Essi Arola, head of R&D, packaging at Lumene, tells PersonalCareInsights.

“After careful testing, we have already achieved a best-before time of nine months for the Lumene moisturizers packed in Sulapac jars. Lumene’s pilot with Sulapac is an investment in the future of the cosmetics industry.”

Through this partnership, Lumene’s moisturizers will be packaged in Sulapac’s FSC-certified jars made from wood chips sourced from industrial side streams and plant-based materials.

Novel barrier technology
According to Sulapac, the inner lining of the jars is composed of the “world’s first barrier technology” for cosmetics that gradually falls apart when it comes into contact with natural microbes.

“Sulapac’s bio-based barrier allows water-based cosmetics products to be packaged in biodegradable packaging without leaving permanent microplastics behind. The barrier is added to the inside surface of jars,” Dr. Suvi Haimi, CEO and co-founder of Sulapac, also tells PersonalCareInsights.

“While around 90% of the cosmetics market consists of water-based emulsions, there have not been alternatives for the packaging of water-based products that biodegrade without leaving permanent microplastics behind.”After four years of studies and testing, consumers will be able to purchase Lumene’s moisturizers packaged in biodegradable material.

“It is made of wood chips and plant-based binders. The wood we use is a by-product of industrial side streams originating from sustainably managed forests. Sulapac materials have been tested and certified by our in-house scientists and third-party consultants.”

Arola adds that Lumene is among “the world’s first cosmetics brands” to launch moisturizers in fully bio-based, biodegradable jars.

“Previously, bio-based and biodegradable material faced challenges with the rapid water evaporation leading to short shelf life. The same applies to birch sap and other water-based ingredients. Therefore, the material has not been widely used in water-based cosmetics, such as moisturizers.”

Water-based potential
Lumene’s skincare collections feature cloudberry seed oil and cloudberry seed extract. The two moisturizers that Sulupac will package are water-based.

“Brands that consider water as a key aspect of their formulation will be looking into specific water types, with a specific mineral content or pH, which is usually very much based on their provenance,” Tiina Isohanni, VP of R&D and sustainability at Lumene, also tells PersonalCareInsights.

“Recently, there has been a trend of waterless products and products where the water is added afterward. The latter has been communicated as an environmental act, as the products are then lighter to distribute. This, however, offers a potential risk to consumer safety as the purity of the water might be unknown to the manufacturer and the quality can no longer be guaranteed.”Lumene notes that there has been a trend of waterless products and products where the water is added afterward.

The company states that the cloudberry seed extracts grow naturally in the protected swamp environments of Finland. The berries must always be collected by hand for commercial or private use.

Water’s role in skincare
Water plays an essential role in skincare. It accounts for 60% of the human adult body and represents 70-80% of the chemical composition of our skin, explains Isohanni.

“As we age, our skin loses its ability to retain moisture. After our teenage years, our skin produces less of the molecules that capture water into our skin and almost every layer of the epidermis gets more barren. It also produces less natural moisturizing factors, fewer ceramides and less hyaluronic acid. By the age of 50 to 70, dry skin spots appear even on the healthiest skin.”

Therefore, water plays a significant role in the formulation and manufacturing of beauty, personal care and home care products. She continues to add that water also works as a solvent and carrier for many hydrating ingredients in formulas.

Previously, Sulapac created biodegradable cosmetic jars with thin walls for water-based emulsions. The packaging company’s CEO also emphasized that environmentally sustainable packaging is crucial to cosmetic brands’ long-term success.

By Nicole Kerr