“Forever chemicals” found in Chinese cosmetics packaging, researchers flag danger for pregnant women

30 Aug 2023 --- Cosmetics sold on the Chinese market, including those marketed toward pregnant women, were found to contain levels of “forever chemicals,” according to a new joint study undertaken by scientists at the Wuhan University in China and the National University in Singapore. 

Moreover, most of the packaging in contact with the products analyzed in this work was made of plastic, which the researchers claim might result in PFAS migrating from the packaging to terminal products.

“The use of PFAS and their precursors in the production of plastic as plasticizers and flame retardants and the surface coating of consumer product packaging due to their hydrophobic and lipophobic properties have been reported in several studies,” state the researchers.

“A series of migration tests demonstrated that PFAS in packaging can be leached into the products.”

Citing previous studies, the researchers warn that packaging materials coated with fluoropolymers and applied for products with higher organic content, such as protein, can contribute to PFAS quantity in cosmetics.

PFBA was a major PFAS in the cosmetics for pregnant women, contributing to 22.6% of the total PFAS concentration.Pregnant women at risk
In this work, 45 cosmetic samples were collected from China and 27 PFAS substances identified within the products were analyzed by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography high-resolution mass spectrometry.

PFAS were found in all samples, including the products marketed for pregnant women, and the total concentrations of PFAS measured in each sample were in the range of 4.05 to 94.9 ng/g. 

Additionally, PFBA was a major PFAS in the cosmetics for pregnant women, contributing to 22.6% of the total PFAS concentration. The placental transfer efficiencies for PFBA could reach up to 146%, and maternal PFBA level was negatively correlated with neonatal birth dime.

Short-chain perfluorocarboxylic acids – which findings from previous studies suggest may cause disruptions to liver, hormonal and immune system functions – were flagged as the dominant compounds, contributing to over 60% of the total content.

Perfluorobutanoic acid, which has a high placental transfer efficiency, was the major PFAS in cosmetics for pregnant women.

Three emerging PFAS, 2-perfluorohexyl ethanoic acid, 3-perfluoropentyl propanoic acid (5:3) and perfluoro-2-propoxypropanoic acid, were also identified in the cosmetic samples at “quantifiable” levels.

Significantly, positive correlations between individual PFAS were observed, indicating that there may be a common source for PFAS in these samples.

From the PFAS analysis of the cosmetics, the margin of safety and hazard quotient were calculated to assess human health risks through dermal exposure by using these products.

“Although the margin of safety and hazard quotient values obtained were deemed acceptable, the cumulative effect caused by composite and long-term exposure to these contaminants needs to be given greater attention by health authorities,” conclude the researchers.

Previous research showed that PFAS used in cosmetics may penetrate the human skin barrier and accumulate in the body, increasing cancer-risk. A study from last October warned that certain levels of one type of PFAS, 13C4-Perfluorooctanoic acid, can be absorbed internally via the skin when mixed into a sunscreen.

Scrutiny of forever chemicals has been building over the past year in light of research identifying they may potentially last for years without degrading or passing out of the body.

Calling time on PFAS
Scrutiny of forever chemicals has been building over the past year in light of research identifying they may potentially last for years without degrading or passing out the body.

This month, a study of 100 period products available in US, European and South American markets revealeds that several products from most categories contain PFAS.

The UK-based Cosmetic Toiletry & Perfumery Association argues that PFAS used in makeup does not make products unsafe as they undergo strict regulation to meet legal safety requirements. Just because PFAS are environmental polluters, it does not mean that the chemicals used in cosmetics are equally harmful, the association asserted in January.

In spite of a wavering consensus among specialists who have weighed in on the matter, the EU plans to restrict 10,000 PFAS in a proposal drafted by five countries.

“Without ambitious rules for clean air and water, the industry will not change direction in any nature-beneficial or health-positive way,” Susie Hewson, founder at Natracare, previously told Personal Care Insights.

In the US, the state of California banned the sale of intentionally added PFAS to cosmetics last October.

At the beginning of this year, Thinx settled a class action lawsuit after allegations were made that its period underwear products contain potentially harmful PFAS chemicals, despite the items being advertised as sustainable, organic and reusable.

In light of growing awareness about high levels of micropollutants in the environment, Intrapore joined chemicals supplier Evonik to expand the reach of its remediation technologies, which are designed to remove traces of PFAS in soil and groundwater systems – where they can linger for decades.

By Benjamin Ferrer